We are focused on the reliability of our cables rather than the time of assembly,
still it takes only a few minutes to make one patch.
2. Unscrew the connector and put the nut and the tube over the cable. Don’t forget to do this when assembling the second jack!
5. Take the stripper and the cable as shown on the picture and make one or two turns. The outer isolation will be cut.
7. “Profy” kit contains special stripper (also can be ordered separately). Just put the cable in line with outer side of the stripper and make one or two turns. It will cut exactly 12 mm.
8. If you don’t have a stripper or ordered “Test” kit, you still can use tube sleeve to measure 12 mm. Then use a knife to carefully cut off the isolation.
10. Pull the shield away from the edge, try to maintain its round shape, you will need it to put the shield back later on.
11. Now remove the additional plastic screen. Make a couple of light cuts near the edge of the shield, it should be easy to remove the screen, it’s thin and soft.
13. Cut 4 mm of the central wire. Again, cable diameter is 4 mm so you can use it to measure the length.
14. Use a sharp knife and a solid surface to cut the wire. You want to get a straight cut and don’t have copper wires sticking out of isolation.
16. Each kit contains a small vial of Kontakt-61 compound, it prevents losing electrical signal and rust. Use it to ensure your cable lasts for years. You can assemble the cable without the compound though.
17. Open the vial and hold it horizontally, so that liquid does not pour and it is easy to dip the wire into compound. You need to touch the compound with the tip of the cable to make sure the connection is good.
20. Fix the shield with a tube sleeve as shown on the picture. It’s OK if a small amount of copper shield is left over the thread.